Clicking when turning is usually a worn CV joint. Rapid clicking when you turn the key is a weak battery or starter. Knocking over bumps is worn suspension: drop links, bushes or ball joints. Grinding when braking means pads are gone. A whine that changes with speed is often a wheel bearing. Ticking from the engine can be lifters, an exhaust leak or low oil. Noises are diagnosed by reproducing them, not by guessing.
Stand-in photoMatch the noise
- Clicking when turning, louder in tight turns: CV joint (drive-shaft joint).
- Rapid clicking when starting: weak battery, corroded terminals or starter.
- Single click, no crank: starter solenoid or a wiring/relay fault.
- Knock or clunk over bumps: drop links, control-arm bushes, ball joints, strut mounts.
- Clunk when shifting into gear or on/off the throttle: engine/transmission mounts or driveline play.
- Grinding when braking: pads worn to metal; stop and call.
- Squeal when braking: wear indicators or glazed pads.
- Whine or growl that rises with road speed: wheel bearing.
- Whine that rises with engine speed: alternator, power-steering pump or belt tensioner.
- Ticking from the engine: valve train, low oil, exhaust manifold leak.
- Rattle on cold start that fades: timing-chain tensioner on some engines.
- Squeal on start-up: belt or tensioner.
- Hiss: vacuum leak or AC.
What helps us find it
Tell us when the noise happens (cold, hot, turning, braking, bumps, speed), where it seems to come from, and whether it changes with road or engine speed. A short video with sound is often useful; send it on WhatsApp.
Do not wait
A CV joint that clicks will eventually fail. A wheel bearing that hums will eventually seize. A knock that is a ball joint can let the wheel fold under. Noises are cheap to diagnose and expensive to ignore.
Questions
Can you diagnose a noise from a video?
It helps narrow it down, but the noise must be reproduced and located on the vehicle. Send the video on WhatsApp and we will tell you what to expect.